Dr. Jeanine Downie answers common questions about acne
Dr. Jeanine Downie is a graduate of Tufts University and is a board-certified dermatologist. She is co-author of Beautiful Skin of Color, a comprehensive skincare guide for Asian, olive and dark skin. Dr. Downie maintains a private practice in general and cosmetic dermatology in Montclair, NJ.
The causes of acne are linked to the changes that take place as young people mature from childhood to adolescence. While there are numerous
myths about the causes of acne, it is thought that androgens, the hormones you get more of during puberty, trigger the oil glands to produce oil. In people who are affected by acne, the dead skin cells mix with the extra oil and clog the hair follicles in the skin. Bacteria then grows within the hair follicles and causes further irritation of the skin, creating pimples.
Heredity plays another important role as acne can run in families. If your mom or dad had acne as a teen, there is a chance that you too will develop it. Lastly, clogged pores are big culprits that cause whiteheads and/or blackheads, which form when the oil ducts in your skin become clogged. Stress is a more controversial point and may cause and aggravate acne.
There are different types of acne such as non-inflammatory whiteheads, blackheads, as well as inflammatory papules, pustules and cysts. For instance, a whitehead occurs when the hair follicles become clogged with oil and dead skin cells. If there is an opening in the follicle, it turns a darker color when the air touches it and is called a blackhead. Speak to your dermatologist about using an acne treatment that will work for your skin type and acne type.
Acne, especially cystic acne, can indeed cause scars. To help reduce your chances of developing scars, do not squeeze or pick at your blemishes. You should also avoid scrubbing your skin. You should speak to your doctor about your options.
Many people believe that acne is caused by dirty skin; however, it is important to understand that acne is caused by a variety of biological factors and that washing alone will not clear up or prevent it. It is best to wash your face with a mild cleanser and warm water daily as washing too often or too vigorously may actually make your acne worse. If you wear make-up, aim to use products that are non-comedogenic (should not cause whiteheads or blackheads) or non-acenegenic (should not cause acne). In addition, remember to always remove your make-up before going to bed with a mild soap or gentle cleanser and water.
Unfortunately, there is no cure for acne. It is different for everyone and requires a personalized treatment regimen. Talk to your parents about seeing a dermatologist who can recommend treatment. There are topical treatments, oral treatments and hormonal treatments available. No matter what you use, remember to be patient and give it enough time to work, since it may take time before you see results. Be faithful to your skincare regimen and make sure to follow your dermatologist's directions.
There are no acne treatments specifically for use on dark skin. Dark skin has specific needs as dark spots may crop up after acne fades. Many treatments help with acne and the dark marks left behind. It is important to wear sunscreen every day. Consider seeing your dermatologist to help you find the treatment that may be right for you.
